Видео

Thanks for the comment Gordon - I'm glad the video was helpful. It's one I wished had existed when I bought the bench.

You're welcome and thanks for the comment.

Hi Andrew - I'm glad you enjoyed the video. My workshop forms the boundary between ours and our neighbours property - they are really close, much closer than our house is to the workshop, and sound was a consideration. I did film some before and after sound measurements from the front, side and back of the workshop and overall the sound-levels drop by around 10dB with the insulation installed. However, what I found is that it was air gaps that was the biggest source of noise transmission. At the eves, to allow the roof to ventilate it was hard to seal and include large amounts of insulation without disrupting airflow. At the garage door and the personnel door gaps around the door and frame resulted in a lot of leakage. In hindsight, better sound insulation performance could have been improved by choosing a different approach and materials like those you're considering. The connection between the wall and roof structure could have been improved a bit further - perhaps installing mass-loaded vinyl in the corner. However, all that would have sacrificed some internal volume and I'm not sure that would have been worth it. It's mass that absorbs sound and I do wonder if lightweight celetex has any benefit at all, and that what I percieve is the effect of the MDF which is a very good sound absorber/reflector. It is something that I plan to re-visit. The roof insulation got re-done (something I may cover in a follow-up video), and I've made further changes to reduce the temperature in the loft space I created during the summer to protect things I store there from excess heat. Those changes have increased the ventilation in the roof with a bigger gap on the neighbours side. I can hear her when she's on the phone in the garden and I'm sure she can hear me torturing wood inside. I have added lots of 'sound-absorbing' surfaces in the workshop which does mitigate the situation a little - there's is way less ringing and reverberation which I can clearly see in the waveform of any audio I record. So I hope that helps. Gosforth Handyman has done a drum studio video which covers extreme sound reduction/proofing - to the point of suffocation. So you might want to look there too.

Thank you for that I'll check out your other videos. I've just boarded the ceiling with db boards and knauf sound insulation just the walls to go now. I had thought of mdf over knauf on the walls. ( Promised myself no mdf would ever make it's way into the shop but much stronger for hanging cupboards on than plasterboard but noise reduction from hearing outside is most important

The link to the old video is: ruclips.net/video/fpO6lMwRpCQ/видео.html The thing I got wrong was leaving a gap between the two layers. It's taken 3 years as and when I've had access and the patience to do it, to go back into the space and move the insulation layers to remove the gap.

Good choice! And thanks for leaving a comment.

@@arturkozlowski3381 yes

Explained 00:22 - 00:29 in the video.

Thanks for the comment. And yes the guides idea has proven popular and turned me into a tool-making business!

Hi. Thanks for the question. At the moment I have a single 20A radial circuit from the house. When I moved in I the developer installed a single 13a fused spur from the ground floor ring main, via an armoured cable through the garden. A temporary fix was to terminate this at the fuse board on a breaker has now lasted almost 6 years. My plan is to have a bigger circuit and small consumer unit installed the garage fed straight from the meter cabinet.

You’re welcome Jason.

It's the thickness of gate front to back at the place you plan to install the lock.

Hey dan. A popular question and an obvious omission from the video and I probably should have at least mentioned why as I did explain that 2 bays were going to be addressed at a later date when the personnel door was to be installed. I have a video on that here: ruclips.net/video/ak6Aor6j344/видео.htmlsi=fqQ8YhLdt97XGoCA and in the video you can see in the background of the making and talking-head the concrete pilars are covered (red) and (not visible) insulated behind. The primary reason was that I wanted to come up with a method which was insulated and very strong so that I could mount racking or heavy objects from them. The approach taken was to make a 3 sided box (U shaped channel) out of 3/4" plywood that is 40mm wider than the block pilar and about 55mm deep. Then insulate inside the box and then bolt these boxes on to the concrete pilars using shield bolts (some of the strongest non permanent fixings you can buy). A secondary reason was that the door installation got delayed to February 2020 and then the pandemic hit and I couldn't get plywood or insulation for many weeks. To answer your question simply, yes you should cover these pillars. I was trying to maximise space inside and decided on an 'overlay' approach which I think has worked out well for me. There's a more complicated answer based around the thickness of the wall through the pillar to the outside, the impermeability of concrete blocks to moisture, the foam material installed between the blockwork and the brickwork and U values. In short, if you built out the finished surface of the walls either side to around 32mm beyond the face of the blockwork and installed 25mm celotex over the top and board over that, you'll get a clean flush wall the length of the garage. It would also mean being able to use 65mm celotex in placed of the 40mm I used giving you a better result. I hope that helps. There's been a surge of interest in this project so I may well do a follow-up specifically on all the insulation work completed off-camera. Thanks so much for leaving a comment. It really does help - more than subs and likes.

@@StrawbyteWorkshop really appreciate the response. I'm planning on doing similar to my detached garage with plywood lining and insulation. Reckon the air gap between plywood and breeze block wall would need air vents to connect the air circulation with the outside air? As my garage currently doesn't have this. Subscribing to you now!!

@@dancharles6942 Ah, so the question of vents behind the insulation has come up in a comment before. Remember standard fletton house bricks are permiable to moisture and vapour. On a house you will often see weep holes that are installed over impermeable cavity trays installed in the wall, and vents in some cases . This would due to the cavity wall situation. When I contacted the kingspan technical department they explained that weep holes or air vents were not necessary in my case. If yours is similar, I wouldn't worry about or prioritise vents in your wall.

Thanks for the comment. A lot to unpack here. So, in terms of sealing. The wall is battened and the celotex is fitted. It's important that the it is a close fit to the side walls and fortunately in my situation the block columns were straight enough. Seal the gap between the celotex and the wall now, and the floor too. When I boarded over the top, I sealed again to get a clean finish for paint. In your situation, I can't fully comprehend the transition between the door and wall. Getting the detail right here is about minimising cold bridging. When I put my door in kept the transition around the door quite simple. I'll come back to this in a separate reply. Your last question has the correct assumption. All my lower battens are above the DPC. That said, using the method shown in backing each batten with DPC material could allow you to bridge the DPC with minimal adverse consequences, but it's not recommended in the guides from insulation manufacturers. I guess this is that when a batten becomes wet on its end the moisture or rot will migrate along the grain.

Hello again @olddiyer I've quickly recorded a video about the detail around the door of the workshop check it out here: ruclips.net/video/0ZLimvz0EEU/видео.html

@@StrawbyteWorkshop Many thanks again Karl for yet more super video material. Your video has helped me overcome some problems I have experienced after installing a new doorway in my garage. The reasons are explained below. I had to use a bespoke UPVC door to fit the limited wall height and as a result a Birtley type steel lintel had to be used to support the single brick course just above it and the wall plate where the roof trusses were supported. This type of lintel has an "L" shaped shaped cross section with an outward protruding section along its interior length to provide added strength. As as result the wall battens had to be 2x2 to clear this feature and this limited the insulation thickness I could use to remain within the depth of the garage piers. As a result I decided to use 25mm PIR Reticel board overlaid with 12.5mm MDF The wall itself was another issue as it had been badly laid and was 5mm or more out of vertical in some places where the doorway had been cut into it. However, the 2x2 battens proved to be ideal to create a solid straight , vertical fixing adjacent to the new UPVC door. These battens were positioned just far enough away from the doorway frame to ensure a reveal thickness of 25mm insulation plus 12.5mm MDF would overlay the new UPVC doorframe by about 17.5mm. In other words the timber battens were not positioned right up to the doorway frame. The gaps between the timber battens and the crooked walls were sealed all round. 25mm Reticel PIR board was then fixed and sealed to the new flat studwork bringing it flush with the studwork edge around the doorway reveals. It was then sealed all round and to the floor below the DPC. 25mm Reticel was then glued and screwed to the timber battens inside the reveals, once again sealing it all round to prevent the edges touching the rough brickwork. Finally, 12.5mm MDF was fixed over the insulated reveals to make a neat straight corner as you show in your video. The MDF was also sealed all round. Using this process I could fix the MDF right up to the UPVC doorframe and seal it, hopefully prevent excessive cold bridging at this point.

Hi thanks for watching - I'm pleased to see it still get views despite it's age. So, at first glance, you'd be right to assume that the part under the rail serves no real purpose, after all it's the ridge against the splinter guard that's the critical dimension. However in practice you want the guides to remain in-place if you're adjusting the rail at either end to line-up on marks on the workpiece so they help with that. Its a feature thin enough and sized to both be held by the rail and be easy to remove without the rail moving. Basically, trial and error led to this working out best when I first came-up with the idea leading to what you see now.

110mm

I do remember that putting the hex key in the hole at the back to be counter intuitive and hard work. It’s been a while since I had that saw. Still a good saw in every other respect.

@@StrawbyteWorkshop the irony in posting this comment, then thinking, maybe I'll try it the other way, with the impact driver, and it came loose! It was just on factory-tight! It's a solid saw, but for my use, it's lacking features incidentally that are on the EVO. Thanks for getting back to me! 🪚👍🙂

You're welcome.

It has made a big difference. But bear in mind I’ve completed the last two walls and the block piers off camera. Generally in the summer it’s about 5 degrees cooler than outside, in the winter a 2kw heater gets the space up to 15 degrees in about 30 mins and the space retains heat well. I didn’t insulate the floor due to floor standing tools, but that’s a consistent 9 degrees all winter long. I am preparing an update on the project and will talk to some of the other gains. You may need to do some additional research when insulating a room integral to the house. Building Regulations will guide you on the thickness of insulation needed. Typically 75mm plus 25mm overlayed as a minimum. A call to the technical department of a supplier will give you an idea of what you need. As the work was in an outbuilding and the room is not for sleeping, cooking or a bathroom, I was fairly free to choose the level of insulation.

@@StrawbyteWorkshop thanks so much for your response, i really appreciate the info and look forward to the update, cheers

Internal Garage conversions do require special attention and it sounds like your existing walls are constructed in a particular way. It’s not clear if the wall is cavity or solid. But a call to the technical department of any PIR manufacturer will guide you on the install including how much insulation, vapour control measures and if any separation is required between the new materials and existing walls. The new room will be considered part of your home and may require building control approval. Something I avoided by being detached and not creating a space that was for sleeping, cooking or washing. These are just a few pointers to help you look for the right advice as I can’t advise you on your specific situation. K.

@@StrawbyteWorkshop thanks so much for your help. Great advice.

Hi Søren thanks for the comment. It is a little tricky but it is possible with care. If you have two rails you can join them so on the first pass you trim the end of rail one and the beginning of rail two. And then you rejoin them with the uncut bits in the middle and do a second pass. Peter Millard has a good video on this. But if you’ve just the one rail I wouldn’t get too hung up on a perfect trim end to end. 150mm from each end with be a section 80% of the whole length that will be perfect and if you line your marks with this part of the track your cuts will be accurate. I hope to update this video soon with tips that have come from the comments in the video. K.

You’re welcome.

I agree.

Hi Andrew. I'm glad you enjoyed it. And thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.

Hi thanks for the feedback on the video. I agree with your comparison with other options in terms of cost. It is an expensive option but don’t think a rim lock and deadbolt would suit the gate as it stands. The current gate is garbage compared to its replacement with too much seasonal movement and more conventional door furniture is likely to be the option chosen when I come to install the new gate. As said in the video this was an opportunity to try the system. In terms of security yes, from the inside it is simple to let yourself out. That was intentional as the gate is in constant use from the house (access to bins, cars and parcel box) and it’s where work deliveries come through. The gate is padlocked to secure it at other times however and was shown in the video. This is a reasonable balance based on our needs plus other security arrangements not show (for obvious reasons) give additional comfort.

You're absolutely right, something I do myself. And thanks for leaving a comment.

Agreed - but choosing the option where it could be unlocked by hand from the inside was intentional - the back gate is in constant use from the house as the bins and parcel box is on the other side. When we're away overnight, the gate can be padlocked. Had the gate been simply an occaisional means of access, as was the gate in my last house, then sure keyed access from both sides would have made the gate more secure.

@@StrawbyteWorkshop Yes, that makes sense in your case. I have to admit, sometimes you have to remember where you leave your key take out key as I've also broken A number of keys by leaving it in the lock and open the gate, If the wind catches the gate when passing through it. My gate is in a very windy situation. I have a damper on the closer, But even that's not enough help in very high winds.

You're welcome.

Sounds very similar to my late father’s workshop. Thanks for the comment.

Hi - thanks so much for the question.Regarding 1) I considered 3 approaches to insulating the space. a) a stud wall 50mm away from the infilled with insulation, a further layer of insulation and finished surface (MDF, plasterboard or ply), b) foil-faced PIR plus finish surface, or insulated plasterboard stuck directly to the brickwork, or c) the approach featured in the video. Insulation on top of battens. a) was discounted due to the loss of interior space. The wall would have been 180mm thick either side or 280mm lost internally. If you were insulating a garden room, office, gym or yoga studio, that might be acceptable. b) It was discounted due to both Celotex and Kingspan (who provided direct help with the project via their technical line) advising against sticking the product to the wall if the wall is exposed to external weather. Fletton bricks are really very porous. Before the project, a windy storm would lead to water being driven into the brick and running down the inside of the wall. It is really the longevity of the adhesive that's the problem - prolonged exposure to moisture might result in the adhesive failing and the insulation detaching from the wall. c) so this option was chosen. It allows water to enter through the brick and any moisture condensing on the internal face of the brickwork to move within the 25mm cavity and eventually migrate back out through the wall in drier weather. I hope that's clearer - I know in the video I focused on the vapour barrier, but the nature of Fletton bricks was the primary consideration. If you're insulating a blockwork wall, a wall made from engineering bricks, a concrete panel wall, or a wall with wide roof eaves at the roofline so rain doesn't touch the wall surface, then you may glue directly to the wall. There's another video (a car garage) on youtube where the person glues directly to the wall where I think the had no water penetration of the wall. With regards to question 2. The space is so much warmer. In the video I discussed the fact the space is 5 degrees cooler in the summer. In the winter, generally, 20 minutes of a 2Kw heater is enough for it to stay above 10 degrees for the whole day. Remember, I've only insulated which minimises heat loss when you put heat in. I might do a follow-up video on this because during the winter months I tend to run a dehumidifier continuously through the winter to bring the relative humidity to around 55% and the unit dumps its waste heat into the space keeping the temperature around 5-8 degrees all winter long. When I'm out in the workshop I tend to use infa-red radiant panels to just warm me in the two spots I tend to stand and work. It is well worth doing.

Hi, thank you for taking the time for your detailed response it’s really appreciated. I am of a similar opinion regarding option a) as would confine my space greatly. My bricks are set with lime mortar however the walls have never let any moisture completely penetrate but I assume option c) and leaving a gap should any moisture come through to dry out in the summer would be best. Will batten with damp course strips and tie into damp course at floor level. Sorry a resulting third question, should any weep holes be installed at ground level?

@@JM-xq4oq I’m glad I could help. In terms of weep holes, you generally require them when you have a cavity tray installed in a typical two skin cavity wall. I saw no advice from any of the insulation vendors recommending the batten approach to retrofit them.

Amazing, thank you so much. Has given me peace of mind of the best approach and cleared up some confusion I had from my research. Floor and ceiling are already done so just the walls left 😊

@@JM-xq4oq I’m interested, because I’m always asked about mine, but what steps did you take to insulate the floor?

Hi Chris - sounds you've a very similar situation to me. Let's deall with those questions. The switch from insulated plasterboard was a practical one. Namely if you bulk order then you need somewhere in the dry to store it before installation. With the second approach, the celotex is fine in the rain for a short while and 9 or 12mm MDF can be picked up on a daily basis as I needed it. In-fact, I bought all the materials I needed to finish the job at once and my builders merchant stored it for me and dropped it of every day. The video was filmed over almost 5 weeks with 2 week gap between approaches, so it looks a little odd there was a switch. Yes, the blockwork was later covered with insulation and boxed in. I did shoot video in 2020 covering that but haven't revisted the project on the channel. The video remains popular and I get many questions from new viewers so I may soon do a follow-up. The work was completed in 2019. As said, I completed covered the blockwork, Installed a personnel door and finished the final 2 'bays', installed skirting board, replaced the up and over garage door and re-installed the insulation again on that wall, and dealt with some patching due to a faulty damp-proof membrane installed by my builder. I touched on it in the video when I spoke of the workshop staying cool in the heat. The reverse is true - in winter time 20 minutes with a fan-heater and it's approaching too warm and stays warm all day. The only thing I wish I had done is install the flooring first and then tie that into the wall at DPC level. There's been no issues in terms of performance but it would have been a tidier result. I hope that helps. Karl.

One winter through and it's held-up pretty well. The only rust has come from the fact I used steel screwdrivers to drive in the stainless steel screws. A common issue and the reason why you might want to consider stainless tools (if you have the money). In terms of fit - most of the issues I've had have been with a crappy gate which is coming away from one wall. Not the lock's fault.

It's still running fine - although very noisy still. I did move this on to my son's workshop and he's pretty happy with it for guitar building. But I really did get to hate the noise.

It certainly is. I've not regretted the extra money spent at all.

Hi James, You can do it! I've heard from many complete DIY novices who have surprised themselves with pulling off a decen installation. I think the nice thing about it is that you cover-up mistakes with each layer leaving, perhaps, some moderate surface filling and then painting. Regarding the floor. Before tackling the floor the concrete used to kick-up dust all the time and I found that concrete sealing products really didn't last long. I sealed the floor for the last time a few months before I bought the vinyl floor with a product recommended by my builder and what I used to seal my patio. It didn't really work so the floor you saw me laid was laid straight on the concrete. No damp-proof membrane and not sealing post installation. In-fact being PVC I've had no damp what so ever rise through the floor. I hope that helps. Let me know if not.

Glad you enjoyed it

Terima kasih

I’m not sure. I think Alastair Johnston on RUclips might know more about this.

The ceiling was insulated at the same time and was featured it a separate video. You’ll find the link somewhere in the comments but I unlisted the video due to an issue with the approach. Now fixed a new video is coming soon.

Mmm.. I hadn't noticed the keys and you're right. - but frankly I've found that to be true of many locks lately. If I revisit the lock at any time I'll make that point. Thanks.

One can have a sturdier key made(copy) at a hardware store.

Thanks for the feedback. Peter has been a good friend ever since and I've a short video coming out in a week or so covering the the person who inspired the idea behind the innovation. My later father, Terry.

Hi - thanks for the question. I did put out a video at the time (ruclips.net/video/fpO6lMwRpCQ/видео.html) which covered the roof installation. However I made a mistake and took the video down from public view. Watch the video anyway, but note the mistake I made was battening out after the first layer of insulation and then putting a second layer on top with a gap between them. That's not best practice as there's a risk of condensation forming in the gap. I've since re-done the whole roof over a couple of summers and removed the gap now and plan to update the video at some point. Regards Karl

@@StrawbyteWorkshop Thank you for taking the time to reply. I did start the process after learning as much I could from other's examples. I did follow a similar solution to you, but with just a 70mm PIR between the roof rafters (leaving 30mm space to the fabric/membrane under the tiles). I did use aluminium tape to close all sides of the PIR though. Due to the nature of my garage roof, the painful part was to cut to size the sides of the roof (average of 600mm x 190mm). One idea pending is to find some light material that can be used to cover evenly the PIR to give it a more fine finish (maybe, PVC sheets or light panels, not sure). Next step is to follow your video suggestions for the walls. Hopefully before summer. Thank you.

Thanks for your comment. I would suggest that you take a look through the comments for lots of information not included in the video about the work. Specifically: 1) I did post a video about that (ruclips.net/video/fpO6lMwRpCQ/видео.html) but I made a mistake in the construction of the insulation in the roof. The video shows a gap between two layers of insulation which shouldn't be there and it's taken 2 years of work to slowly go around the roof space and correct the mistake. I do plan to put another video out. 2) So there were a number of options I considered when planning the build which were discounted and led to the approach seen on camera. You are right to assume that minimising the space lost in building the walls out was one and those methods that would have covered the pilars removed the most space. With regards to the pillars themselves, I chose to wait before insulating them as I wanted to work-out first what I wanted to mount on the walls as they are strong-points in the building. They have now been covered and fully insulated. I get asked a lot about this and I'm considering revisiting this project given a renewed interest in this project recently.

Hi, thanks for the question. I've put a Festool rail square on the 600mm rail and it does a pretty fine job as a simple cross-cut saw for construction timber. You need to remember that the 50mm depth of cut on these saws is only achieved at the blades lowest point so to cut a 150mm joist you need at least the length of the saw before the cut and about 100mm afterwards, so that might be 250mm + 150mm (timber) + 100mm = 500mm which i would say is a minimum. You can just plunge straight into the timber but you only really save 100mm or so. I would say 400 is a bit too short.

@@StrawbyteWorkshop thanks for explaining! I get it now. So absolute minimum is determined by where the square puts the track. You'd need saw shoe length plus timber length of cut if you plunge, so for 90, let's call it 100, 350 absolute best case with full saw engagement but if you're happy letting it just roll off the end then less could suffice. Thanks again. I will buy the rails soon since the price is going up in a few weeks. I'll make calls on cutting division once I have saw and squares. Thanks again for your insight! <3

Pop a link in to what you're referring to. Ta.

You're not wrong. The lack of a second quadrant and knob on the right-hand side isn't great at all. I probably should revisit this machine because what wasn't clear at the time I made the video was that it was missing a bunch of parts, including the graphite pad to go behind the belt. When I say missing, I don't mean the forgot to put them in the box, I mean they didn't bother manufacturing them and the belt was frankly useless. A number of calls to Axminster got a resolution but I had to re-make my own table to give me support on both sides. It's okay now - just.

Glad you enjoyed it

Hi Linda - thanks very much for the comment. It's coming up for five years since I let these little gizmos loose into the world and I've been continually delighted with the response and encouragement. It's ironic that their success has lately prevented me from dedicating much time to my RUclips adventure, but that's the way things are some time. Peter Millard was a good friend way back when we were both very small channels and was the first person who came to mind when I wanted to see if the idea would work. He showed them on his channel in April 2018 and I had 100 orders within two days. I've got a video ready for April looking back at that time and the surprising and never-before-told story of the guides. Thanks again. K.

Hi. Thanks for the question. Yes, I did consider insulating the floor, which I could have spoken about in this video. Firstly when thinking about what I needed to do cost wasn't a problem, had I felt the need to insulate the floor I'd have happily paid the money. The deciding factors were a) the space would be largely unheated with 'cold' protection in the winter keeping the space above 5 degrees 24/7, and b) wanted to keep some form of level entry for heavy machine tools. c) it's pretty mild in the UK and we don't have a frost-line like some parts of the US where the ground surface is permanently below freezing for much of the winter. Had the space been a bit more recreational, such as a gym or garden room, or perhaps a home office, I would have installed joists, insulation and caber-board (chipboard) flooring with any finished floor (such as the vinyl) on top. In those use cases you may well be heating the space for longer periods and overnight. The ceiling height is generous in the space so you wouldn't loose much height over all. This would have addressed one unseen problem in the garage that is common on almost every garage floor: the floor slopes towards the garage door by around 60mm over the 6m length. This is to stop water from wet cars pooling in the space when you park up.

Thanks. I appreciate you leaving a comment. K.

I'm afraid not, although I might be moving to the AP254SB myself so you never know. But I think there's a more in-depth video on how I made the insert that would be genuinely interesting because of a couple of novel steps I took. All the effort goes into the making the first and then every subsequent plate takes literally minutes with a first time fit.

I'm quite happy with the saw. I've made a few minor tweaks and it does just what I need. My last saw was a Bosch GTS job site saw though, so a major upgrade 😁

That's really interesting. I'm curious, it's the new-style saw you have- the one released recently? I had the Bosch GTS 10 XC myself which I was really pleased with and had the AP254SB not been discontinued at the time, that would have been the upgrade for me. Instead the AW254TS was where I eventually landed. Like you, I've made several tweaks myself.and tuned the saw up to get excellent results even with full thickness cuts. My only disappointment has been with the sliding table. Set-up it's bob-on accurate but it's just too big for my space. I've now reverted to a cross-cut sled again. Shame. But thanks for the comment. Take care. K.